There’s something stupid and glorious about rolling out when it’s 28°F and your breath fogs your sunglasses. Most people think you’re nuts. Maybe they’re right. But if you want to keep riding through winter instead of staring at Zwift for four months, here’s what actually works.
Layering: Less Complicated Than the Internet Makes It
Base layer: Merino wool or synthetic. That’s it. No cotton, ever. Cotton gets wet and stays wet and you will be cold and miserable. Cheap synthetic running shirts work fine. Expensive Merino is nicer (and doesn’t stink after one ride). Pick one and move on.
Mid layer: Maybe. Depends on you. I run hot and skip this above 30°F. My riding buddy wears a thermal jersey at 45°F. You’ll figure out your own thermostat. A thin fleece or cycling-specific thermal works if you need it.

Outer layer: Windproof front, breathable back. This is non-negotiable. Wind at 18 mph on a 30°F day feels like 13°F on your chest. You want that blocked. But if the back isn’t breathable, you’ll be soaking wet from sweat by mile five. Pit zips help dump heat on climbs.
Hands, Feet, Head—Where the Battle Is Won or Lost
Your core will be fine. Your fingers and toes will betray you.
Hands: Regular cycling gloves are useless below 40°F. Lobster gloves (two fingers per compartment) are the move—way warmer than five-finger gloves while still letting you shift and brake. Below 20°F, consider bar mitts. They look ridiculous. They work incredibly well.
Feet: Cycling shoes have vents. Vents in winter are holes that let cold air hit your toes. Neoprene booties help a lot. Wool socks (not cotton!) matter more than you’d think. For serious cold, look into actual winter cycling boots—Lake and 45NRTH make them. Toe warmers from the hardware store are cheap insurance.
Head: A thin thermal cap under your helmet covers your ears and makes a massive difference. Your neck gets cold where your jacket ends and helmet begins—a Buff or neck gaiter fixes this. Below 20°F, I wear a balaclava and don’t care how dumb I look.

Glasses That Don’t Fog
Cold air makes your eyes water. Then you can’t see. Then you hit a pothole. It’s a whole thing.
Get glasses that actually seal around your face—cycling-specific with foam gaskets or tight wraparounds. Apply anti-fog spray the night before. When you stop at a light, pull them away from your face slightly so they don’t fog from your breath.
Clear lenses for dawn/dusk. Yellow or amber for overcast days (way better than clear in flat winter light). Swap them based on conditions.
Your Bike Hates Winter Too
Road salt and grime will destroy your drivetrain if you ignore it. Wipe down your chain and apply fresh lube after every wet/salty ride. Seriously—every ride. Your chain will thank you.
Cold drops tire pressure. Pump to your normal PSI inside, and you’ll be 5-8 PSI lower when you hit cold air. Either overfill slightly or accept the squishier ride (which actually helps traction on sketchy surfaces).
Hydraulic brakes work fine in cold. Rim brakes… less so when wet. If you’re on rim brakes and it’s raining below 40°F, your stopping distance just tripled. Plan accordingly.
Lights: Yes, Even at Noon
Winter days are grey and short. Drivers aren’t expecting bikes. Run lights front and rear even midday—blinky mode catches attention. Cold kills battery life, so start with full charge and maybe carry a backup rear light.
Reflective ankle straps are weirdly effective. The up-and-down movement of your pedaling catches headlights in a way static reflective patches don’t.
Know When to Stay Home
Below 10°F, things get genuinely dicey. Exposed skin can frostbite in minutes at those temps with wind chill factored in. If your gear isn’t rated for it, you’re taking a real risk.
Ice is the hard no. Black ice is invisible until you’re on your side wondering what happened. If it rained and then froze, or temps are hovering at 32°F with moisture around, the trainer wins. Pride heals faster than a broken collarbone.
Eating and Drinking in the Cold
You burn more calories staying warm. Eat more than summer, even if you don’t feel hungry. Stuff that’s easy to unwrap with thick gloves—fig bars, gummy blocks, things without complicated packaging.
You’re still sweating, even if you don’t feel thirsty. Insulated bottles keep water from freezing for rides under two hours. Past that, consider warm drink in a thermos or hydration pack worn inside your jacket.
There’s something weirdly satisfying about riding when sensible people are indoors. You come back red-faced, maybe a little hypothermic, definitely alive. Spring comes around and you’ve kept your fitness while everyone else starts from scratch. Worth it.
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